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When assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This honour has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small place securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.